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Feather Picking (Page 2)

We are all familiar with several types of parasites found on the skin or feathers of our avian friends. The actual treatments for these pets are best let to another article but let it suffice to state that ectoparasites can lead to abnormal feather pulling. After the parasites have been eliminated, one of the best devices for preventing further mutilation is a form of the Elizabethan collar.

These devices are so constructed as to prevent the wearer from reaching the affected part of its body. Some forms consist totally or partially of a cylinder worn as a neck brace around the throat thereby restricting any bending ability of the avian cervical region. We prefer to avoid these styles since they can cause difficulties with eating or swallowing as well as seem especially prone to chafing. The style which consists only of a rounded, semidished piece of plastic has worked quite well for us and is easily tailored to fit the particular problem and dimensions of the bird. One of the keys to the success of this from of Elizabethan collar is the use of smooth, lightweight, stiff yet flexible plastic. Used radiographic film fits this need perfectly. Almost any veterinary or human hospital has excess exposed film you may be able to obtain. Following along on figure one, you will need to make the following cuts: outer circumference varies according to the size of the affected area, opening "B" needs to be sufficiently large not to impinge on the wearer's throat even when swallowing but snug enough to prevent the collar slipping off or getting a foot trapped, line "A" is cut so as to permit overlapping of the edges both to form the dish shape and to adjust the size of opening "B". We have tried to smooth up the edge of opening "B" by applying small pieces of tape, sanding it, or melting the plastic. None of these methods seemed to improve the comfort of the collar so we now leave them merely cut smoothly. By experimenting with various degrees of overlapping along cut line "A" you can change both the neck opening size at "B" and the depth of the dish. Our patients tend to adjust better to a shallow wide collar than to a narrow deep collar. Remember that birds need to use their feet so the collar should not be so large nor so deep as to prevent climbing or use of the claws while eating. The ability to fly will also be eliminated or markedly reduced. Close the overlapping edges with numerous staples piercing from outside in. This gives less raised portion for the patient to hook with its beak. Also, the more staples to be removed, within reason, the more likely your bird is to tire of this game and thus stop before the collar falls off. Cover all the staples with lengths of shiny cellophane tape running from hole "B" along the overlapped edges and under the outer edge. For most birds, this presents a surface too smooth to sink their beaks into and therefore preserves the staples. The outer perimeter can be trimmed once the collar is in place in order to prevent the beak reaching past the collar yet not interfere with vital foot functions. DO NOT apply a collar then leave the bird unattended. A few birds will not adjust to this device and frantically try to remove it. Then too the collar may be too small to be effective or too large to permit normal mobility. Experience is the best teacher so seek professional advice if there are any difficulties.


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